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Wheel Bearing Hub

Discussion in 'Gasoline Powered' started by Grip, Mar 15, 2015.

  1. Grip

    Grip Archer Founders

    (I decided to experiment for those who don't want to read the entire post. I bolded the Coles notes version. I am a skimmer myself. This seems to work pretty good.)

    Just thought I would share my experience from the last couple days.

    Have a Chev Cobalt with about 160k that was humming pretty good in the front end. Took a couple months to reach "I better do something about this" stage.

    Put it in the garage, jacked it up (and blocked it safely) and had my wife run it through the gears to fifth. At idle of course just to make sure I get a good hum. Took my stethoscope and determined that it was the driver side. Which is good because when we would drive, we were sure it was the passenger side.

    So I called the local GM dealership and got a price of 237 for a bearing assy. with 5 year warranty(5 stud with speed sensor). Thought to myself, Napa is going to blow that price out of the water. Call them up, and their price is 239 with a 3 year warranty. Lesson learned that you don't always get screwed at a dealership.

    Jack it back up in the garage. You think I could get that old one out? Used penetrating oil, a slide hammer, prybar... Took me at least an hour to get it out. And when it did, it didn't all come at once.

    Ended up having to push a wheel stud through and push the hub out. Kinda like this guy did.
    [​IMG]

    After it came out, it was smooth sailing getting everything back together. Thanks to the Haynes manual of course! Oddly, I look forward to changing the others when they wear out.

    Anyone else had any experience with one of these?
     
  2. stevebc

    stevebc Lead Moderator Staff Founders

    Closest I can come to it is having to replace the outer wheel bearings on the rear wheels of my '77 Rabbit. And that was a 15 minute roadside repair.

    If I had a garage, I'd be tempted to do my own maintenance, but perhaps it's a blessing that I don't.

    Slightly off topic, but I see now that Haynes has manuals for both for the Starship Enterprise, and the Klingon Bird of Prey. Just in case yours breaks down.
     
    Last edited: Mar 15, 2015
  3. NavyCuda

    NavyCuda Grand Nagus Staff Founders

    I stay a long way away from jobber parts. OEM to me is always worth the money.

    Bought a jobber waterpump for $200, OEM was $650. Jobber pump had a different impeller, low quality casting and a questionable sealing surface. 4000km after replacement the jobber pump let go in the mountains and I had to limp the truck to Kamloops. Long and short of it is that the jobber pump ended up forcing an engine replacement.
     
  4. Grip

    Grip Archer Founders

    Yikes!

    Considered an aftermarket fuel pump for my truck. Dealership told me $4-600 depends on which one when I take it out. But I agree... I think I will pay for the OEM.
     
  5. NavyCuda

    NavyCuda Grand Nagus Staff Founders

    TopSecrets Maxima needed new brakes and was at about 270,000 km, so I did a big service. All the wheel bearings, rotors, flex lines, calipers, pads, master cylinder, CV axle boots. The car drives so much quieter now, rolls easier and tries to put you through the wind screen when you touch the brakes. I used all Genuine Nissan parts, except for the calipers because I couldn't get new ones anymore, so those were a premium jobber brand of reman and they work excellent.
     

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